Marc by Marc Jacobs


This is an important season for Marc Jacobs. He presented his last show at Louis Vuitton last season, and this MBMJ (as it will henceforth be known) was the first to be designed by British duo Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier, overseen by Jacobs himself from the FROW. This leaves him only his main 'Marc Jacobs' line as sole creative director, and all of his energy, talent and love will be put into it (watch this space). This was a fascinating and bold collection, alternating biker-chic, slogan-emblazed pieces with some neoprene, some checks and some gorgeous voluminous skirts and shoulder-to-shoulder sculpted bows. Redken's Guido Palau described his inspiration for the twin-braided pigtails as "a little bit ninja, a little bit manga, a little bit Wednesday Addams". He prepped the hair using Pillow Proof Blow Dry Two-Day Extender and Shape Factor 22 before plaiting, then added black hairbands. There's no doubt about the fun factor her;, as the seasons go on, MBMJ will be one to watch.


Oscar de la Renta

I always look forward to Oscar de la Renta, the absolute master of gowns, but for some reason I always associate him with a trademark of feminine elegance that isn’t always there, such as an occasion like this. True, the gowns were breathtakingly beautiful as always, but earlier in the collection looks included masculine tailoring, leather and an unusual pinstripe quilted coat. As for the hair, all the models sported choppy, tomboyish wigs with an almost unsettling bluntness and symmetry. The look was pulled off well, but gave the collection a more ‘unpretty’ sense of style that I wasn’t expecting. It seems that both the masculine/feminine and classic/progressive lines are being blurred quite poignantly across the board this season.


Donna Karan




This season Karan is celebreating not only 25 years of DKNY, but 30 years of her of her original eponymous line, and this collection was a tribute to New York itself. It was largely a collection in black, white, grey and red, the odd bit of tan and one piece in that gold that Demi Moore wore bac in 1996. Eugene Souleiman for Wella was inspired by the hats created by Stephen Jones for the show (see above), playing off reflective shine into matte, dry texture in what he called a "melting" effect. To achieve this, he applied gel using a tint brush from behind the ear, all the way round the hairline to the front and across the forehead, then set it with a hairdryer for 15 minutes. This is the kind of runway hair I love!