Jason Wu




The mood at Jason Wu was serious. Strict, fitted tailoring, high collars and a steely, demure palette; all features that could have had a very androgynous effect were it not for the exquisite femininity it was presented with. Delicate fabrics like sheer lace and reflective satin were offset against the occasional pop of tough leather. The hair, too, carried this approach - structured quiffs at the front flowing seamlessly into carefree, head-hugging, pin-up texture at the back. The effect wasn't relaxed as much as it was a distressed allusion to a style that could quite easily have been executed with perfect shine. All in all, it was a show that gave an idea of some unspoken undertone; an elusive woman, but one with conviction.


Rebecca Minkoff




The theme for Minkoff's AW14 collection was a 'menswear reinvented' approach to womenswear, and whilst the references to pinstipe blazers, button-ups and tomboy-esque beanies certainly got this across, the look were far more geared to a young, cool girl. Knee-length skirts and playful colours paired with crimson lips all had a kind of 90's throwback feel to them - a theme continued in 'belt bags' as the modern reinvention of the fanny pack. The hair here, to match, was equally as youthful: poker-straight and then diffused into soft texture where it wasn't half-hidden beneath hats. This is perfect for the girl who would rather brighten up the dull winter weather than dress too sensibly, (although those stoles would certainly help).


Helmut Lang



The key to Mr & Mrs Covolos' offering this season was the take away spring's minimalism and bring in an array of textures in its place. Knits, furs and ruffles were presented in a pallete that was largely achromatic all but for the bright pops of fiery red here and there. All this, though, cut simply and immaculately, with no sense of heaviness. The hair was just as captivating - what appeared to be those plastic comb/hairband hybrids revered by schoolgirls of the 90s held hair in a strong dual-textured ponytail, which, when paired with barely-there makeup, created a light-but-severe look that complimented the bold-yet-simple mood of the collection perfectly.


Peter Som




The approach to Som's collection was to bridge the gap between the rigid, clean cuts of the 60s with more free-form, flowing pieces. Set on an exquisite palette of navy, orange and taupe with the occasional in interjection of black leather and blurred florals, it was an approach accomplished perfectly. The hair was simple but effective - side parted, clean and ungroomed with large pins holding the heavier side back at the temple. Again, the simplicity of the 60s with more of a caefree nature - a seamless execution of the theme, but a look you really should wear in exactly the way it's intended - or it will just look neglected.


Prabal Gurung




This was an exquisite collection that focused on draping and wrapping, building form, structure and texture along the way. On an earthly palette of browns, blacks and greens with spicy red/orange hues, and many mixed textures from wool and flannel to fur and satin, plus prints, and layered - you could quite easily assume that there would be too much going on, but with its Nepalese influence and nomadic approach, it was cohesive and worked immaculately. Hair? Well, any artistic director should know overkill, and this was sublimely avoided with simple, centre-parted, slouchy styles, pushed back behind the ears. I imagine this was to keep the focus on that collection. And it worked.